Polpo is a favourite round this way, with their lack of booking policy (heaven sent for the disorganised) and tiny Venetian-style cicheti snacks. But it's only as the weather warms up it comes into its own as they open up the massive front window. Combine that with the chattering queue for the restaurant and things suddenly feel more plausibly Italian. Downstairs, the Campari bar dishes out cocktails made with our favourite red aperitif. Reservations taken for lunch only.

